Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Mail-in Rebates: How-to Guide

http://www.capitalistmaven.com/?p=51

A while back I posted about how I managed to get my TaxCut software free this year by using coupons and playing the rebate game. I’m happy to report that I successfully received checks for all 5 rebates I submitted. I addition I sold off all the software I wasn’t going to use on Ebay so I actually made a small profit on the deal.

It wasn’t entirely without problems, one of the rebates was initially denied saying “Missing proof of previous ownership” on the status tracking website www.rebateshq.com. This was for an upgrade rebate that requires a photocopy of the previous CD or first page of user manual. I had included my photocopy as I am very methodical about doing rebates. Fortunately the tracking site had a contact form that I filled out with the problem. About 48 hours later I received an email that the problem had been fixed. I suspect they automatically deny a certain percentage of rebates, assuming that people won’t notice or care enough to follow-up. It pays to stay on top of things.

So here’s my how-to guide for rebates:

1. Read the rebate form immediately to find the postmark due date and be sure to complete it before then.

2. Verify that the product you purchased has no defects, missing parts, etc, as you can’t return it once you cut up the box.

3. Check if the rebate has a website for electronic submission, as this is usually faster and less error prone even though in most cases you still have to print out the completed submission and mail it. Otherwise just fill out the paper form you received.

4. Cut out the necessary proof of purchase from the product package. I recommend using a small piece of tape to loosely attach it to the rebate form as you don’t want the human that is opening the envelopes to drop it on the floor and lose it…

5. Make photocopies or computer scans of everything you are submitting.

6. Address the envelope using the address on the rebate form, write it exactly as on the rebate form and double check it.

7. If the rebate is for a significant amount (I usually say greater than $50), strongly considering sending it certified mail. I’ve never missed a rebate because it was “lost in the mail” but I wouldn’t want to have that perfect record ruined on a $100 rebate.

8. If there is a website listed on the rebate for status, check your rebate status starting 2 weeks after you mail it. If you notice that one of your rebates has been denied, call or email immediately. I think they are more likely to fix it without hassle if you’ve proven to be on the ball by reporting the problem immediately.

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